Pleasures run high and wide at Bombon Cafe

February 10, 2006

Chicago Sun Times

BY PAT BRUNO

Take note of the spelling of this cafe: It's Bombon, not Bonbon. I told some friends how much I loved this restaurant. They got the name wrong, accused me of making up a place I am nuts about, then said I was holding out on them.

Not a chance. I want this place to do so much business it will never go out of business. A selfish act on my part, because I am at the point where I want a torta a day from Bombon Cafe. And while waiting for my torta, some soup of the day (the bean and bacon is incredible). And pastel tres leches mini-cakes (the pineapple is incredible) to finish off, followed by a shot of Illy espresso. Pure heaven.

The tortas at Bombon are better than any I have had in Mexico -- bar none. There are seven tortas to choose from. I have had five of them so far. The Sonora is a wondrous combination of grilled steak, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, avocado spread and lettuce. All of this is "sandwiched" into a homemade bolillo roll that is soft and pliable yet holds its own against that stack of ingredients.

"Stacked" is a good word to use for the tortas (one torta will handle two light eaters). Torta No. 5 (there is no printed menu; everything is on chalkboards hung all over the place) is another magnificent piece of eating. Picture a combination of chorizo, Oaxaca cheese, red onion, bean spread, avocado, lettuce and tomato tucked into a homemade roll (choose from bolillo or telera, a soft roll that is scored around the edge). Got the picture? Positive enjoyment, nothing negative.

Makers and sellers of Italian subs take note: The torta is going to eat your lunch if you are not careful. Frankly, Italian subs have become boring across the board. Tortas, at least those made at Bombon Cafe, are far and away more interesting and enjoyable.

Bombon offers creative salads, too, not so much in the collection of ingredients but in the dressings -- a serrano vinaigrette on the spinach, radicchio and jicama salad, a cilantro vinaigrette on another salad, and an orange/chili piquin on another.

What else? Try the terrific tamales, very good quesadillas (three minis with a fluff of salad) and taquitos.

Order at the counter (your food is brought to your table if you are eating in). Paper and plastic abound (the tortas arrive in a parchment-paper-lined basket). Sit and eat while enjoying the ambience (10 tables in all). On your way out, you will be attracted to the pastry cases like a dog off its leash. I have never left empty-handed. I have gone through four flavors (amaretto, pineapple, pina colada and strawberry) of the pastel tres leches mini-cakes, and, more than once, have ended up at home with some bolillos. Parking can sometimes be a problem, but stay the course; you will not be disappointed.

*Bombon Cafe owners Luis and Laura also operate a pastry shop at 1508 W. 18th Street.

Bombon Cafe, 36 S. Ashland; (312) 733-8717. Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Prices: around $10 for soup and torta.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance writer, critic and author.