The grande bazaar

Coffee buyer Geoff Watts travels the globe looking for a few good beans

By Hugh Dellios
Tribune staff reporter
Published January 22, 2006

 

The taste on Geoff Watts' tongue was chocolate with a hint of tangerine, very sweet with a full body and "nice acidity." In other words, delicious. He surveyed the two dozen work-calloused men and women around him and wondered who had put those flavors in the coffee he sniffed, sipped and rated on his clipboard that morning as if it were fine wine.

For the bean buyer from Chicago's Intelligentsia coffee roasters, the mission was to coax these Nicaraguan farmers into producing something he travels the world to find-that consistently excellent cup.

Most of the growers had never tasted their own coffee, which is still unprocessed and unroasted when trucked down the hill from their Las Brumas cooperative. Until recently, they had little idea where it went, who was drinking it, how good it was or how much people in big-city coffeehouses were paying for it.

But now here was Watts, vice president of the gourmet Intelligentsia company who had traveled all the way from Chicago to their little town of Palo Blanco to meet them.

And he was promising to pay considerably more than the global price that kept them hungry and on the brink of losing their farms--if only they could guarantee those subtle flavors that his customers demanded. The unusual meeting last spring was part of something much larger: a global effort to promote high-quality coffee, partly to make more profits on $3 lattes, but also to narrow the chasm between the meager earnings of coffee growers and the $80 billion a year that people all over the world pay to sip the final product.

The trend has become known as "relationship coffee," wherein roasters and retailers of specialty coffee find their own growers instead of buying from wholesale importers. Ideally, growers get a premium for supplying reliable, high-end beans and are less vulnerable to the industry's periodic price crashes and the middlemen who cut into their earnings.

Beginning in 1999, a collapse in world prices deepened the longstanding plight of coffee farmers. They now get only 10 percent of the industry's expanding earnings, as opposed to 30 percent 20 years ago. Despite a slight rebound in the global price to about $1 a pound this year, farmers remain steeped in debt and mistrustful of buyers' promises. Even those who grow superior coffee beans are turning to other crops.

But there may be a partial answer in the growing demand for better coffee, which has led to a proliferation of premium products pushed by retailers ranging from Starbucks to Dunkin' Donuts. Many coffee companies now boast that they know and help their farmers, and some industry officials and international aid experts are working to make sure that such claims really translate into more money for the growers.

Knowing the farmers, contracting with them directly and offering them incentives to improve their product was the reason the 32-year-old Watts was now standing in the clapboard shack of the Las Brumas co-op, surrounded by lush Nicaraguan coffee trees.

"We can build this relationship," said Denis Arauz, the Las Brumas president, as he and his fellow small-scale growers welcomed Watts. "We have to understand how people drink coffee in a country that doesn't even have one coffee tree."

Over the next three days, with a Tribune reporter along, Watts roamed the hills by truck, testing cup after cup of coffee, calculating taste scores on a laptop computer and cultivating long-term ties with appreciative but wary farmers.

"Sometimes I think the coffee farmers think it's all smoke and mirrors-these guys coming down and talking about the apricot flavor in their coffee, and, 'I'll pay you for $5 for this and $3 for that,' " said Watts, an earnest, soft-spoken Arlington Heights native.

"What makes it fun is knowing you can help create a whole new model for the industry. A clear separation is starting to be seen between [companies] who are really committed to this and others who just want to make money from it."

Industry critics suspect that for some retailers, "relationship coffee" is merely a clever marketing tool that allows them to use a co-op's name on their shiny per-pound bags and show a farmer's face on their Web site. But other companies clearly are spending time and money to help farmers, if only to pursue the self-interested goal of ensuring a sustainable supply of premium coffee.

The challenge, industry and aid officials say, is to ensure that the quality trend isn't just another fad, just another broken promise to the growers, nor seen as a panacea for the problems of the world's 25 million growers.

Some skeptics point out that consumers have to rely on a retailer's word that the extra money is getting to farmers, instead of having a certification system like the one that regulates the socially-minded "fair-trade" market. In that system, the grower is guaranteed a price of at least $1.26 per pound, considered the rate that allows an average farmer's family to maintain a decent life.

Specialty coffees, while accounting for 60 percent of the "occasional" cups bought by U.S. consumers, make up only 15 percent of daily U.S. coffee consumption and an even smaller sliver of the world market. But since 1999, when prices dropped to the lowest point in a century adjusted for inflation, industry officials and global development organizations have promoted quality as one of the keys to farmers' survival and sustainability. The U.S. Agency for International Development has spent $58 million since 2002 to help Nicaraguan, Rwandan and other farmers improve their product and capture niche markets.

One goal is to convert the coffee market into something like the upscale wine market, where consumers can match a certain flavor with a certain region or even a particular farm, perhaps even knowing about and demanding Las Brumas' coffee by name. The goal is to make "Juan Valdez" a savvy marketer, and not just a symbolic pitchman.

"Too frequently, you find growers selling Mercedes-Benzes at Toyota prices," says Charles Oberbeck, USAID's chief of regional development projects in Central America, who encourages farmers to find specialty buyers, but not to rely on anyone in particular. "What they need is a transparent market where they grow quality coffee, they know it's quality and they know the world market knows. For Central America, it is absolutely critical to compete with quality."

THE TRUCK SLOWED, then stopped in the middle of a gravel road. After an hour's drive through windy mountain passes and tiny villages with as many saddled horses as trucks, Watts and three companions were lost. Backtracking, they finally drove over a rise into territory Watts recognized-a lush, nearly mile-high forest crawling with moss and vines and spiky ferns. The smell was of wood smoke and musty underbrush. Shaded beneath the forest canopy were the shiny leaves and young green coffee beans of Las Brumas, "The Mists."
 
"Look how healthy these trees look. Don't they look happy?" Watts said.

It was a trust-building courtesy call, Watt's fourth visit to the co-operative since 2002, when Las Brumas won 10th place in a "Cup of Excellence" contest meant to reward the best coffees produced in Nicaragua each year. Intelligentsia and other small roasters have paid up to $12 a pound for them. Since 2002, Intelligentsia has dealt directly with Las Brumas, its purchases handled by a California importer and a Nicaraguan export and processing co-operative called the Center of Northern Coffee Cooperatives, or Cecocafen.

Intelligentsia purchased a third of the 68,000 pounds of coffee Las Brumas produced in 2005, paying the co-op $1.42 per pound. Starting this year, it has promised to pay $1.65, $1.45 and $1.30 directly to the co-op, depending on howWatts rates the beans.

The higher price means Las Brumas farmers earned about $1.05 per pound for all of their coffee in 2005, after money was set aside for a development fund and service costs, according to Pedro Haslam, Cecocafen's general manager. Other growers who sell through Cecocafen but don't have direct premium buyers received about 90 cents per pound, Haslam said. When coffee prices bottomed out a few years ago, the growers received 20 or 30 cents a pound. Even today, while the global price in New York is around $1, some farmers will get half that.

For Intelligentsia, Nicaragua is the starting point for a production chain that wends from the region's bean-drying platforms to a seaport in El Salvador to a warehouse in Oakland, Calif., culminating in the company's roastery in a converted Chicago factory on the West Side, where three vintage German roasting machines prepare the final product.

From there, it is bagged and trucked to the company's two coffeehouses, one in the Loop and the other on the North Side, or to restaurants and stores as far away as New York, Louisville and Vancouver.

In Chicago, Intelligentsia markets Las Brumas' coffee as part of a Nicaraguan blend called Flor Azul, described as "deliciously sweet" with "a charisma and confidence that evoke the resilient spirit of the country where it is grown."

Flor Azul costs $12.95 a pound in the company's own coffeehouses, and is shipped wholesale at $7.95 per pound. While that price is higher than other specialty coffees, company officials say those prices are fair, given their investment, risks and the costs of shipping, storage, roasting, retailing and paying salaries and benefits to 64 full-time employees in the U.S.

Most of those employees work in the cavernous warehouse at the West Side roastery, where the hip-hop and reggae music is loud and the conversation buoyant-what might be expected from a young crowd not only making good money on a hot product but convinced that it is doing good in the world.

"There's no shame in being profitable, and it's important for us to be successful. Otherwise we can't pay [farmers] more for good coffee," says Doug Zell, 39, who founded Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea Inc. in 1995 after working with several San Francisco-based roasters.

"People say, 'Oh, $3 for a cup of coffee!' But I never heard anyone complain about an $8 or $16 glass of wine, or even more than that for champagne," he says. "The work to produce that level of coffee is not any less than producing the great wines of the world."

Zell says Intelligentsia makes a net profit of 8 to 9 percent of sales, which the company expected to be around $9.5 million in 2005, up more than 20 percent from 2004.

Intelligentsia and other small-scale direct buyers are a minority in the coffee market, which is dominated by Kraft (Maxwell House), NestlZ (NescafZ) and Procter and Gamble (Folgers). But the specialty roasters and industry officials believe the high-end market can be pushed even higher and further.

"It's less than 5 percent of the world coffee market, but that's 5 percent of a pretty good number [of coffee farmers]," says Daniele Giovannucci, a consultant to the World Bank and Specialty Coffee Association of America. "We're talking about helping 1 million people."

Since 1999, Intelligentsia's Watts has traveled to Mexico, El Salvador, Colombia, Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala, Peru, Kenya, Ethiopia, Indonesia and elsewhere to establish links with promising growers. He says he has met more than 4,000, knows perhaps 120 by name and buys from about 800 of them.

Three times last year he visited Rwanda, the hottest new source of high-grade Arabica coffees so much in demand that buyers are tripping over one another to establish toeholds there.

All that travel means Watts, who started out as a coffee-house barista while at the University of California-Berkeley, can easily discuss how the coffee trade is affected by Rwanda's Hutu-Tutsi politics, or the endemic corruption in Kenya, or the problems with the ports in Peru.

He tells a story about a grower he met in Huehuetenango, Guatemala, who had worked hard on his own to upgrade the quality of his coffee beans. As he tried various experiments to improve the quality, he was ridiculed by his neighbors, who said he was wasting money.

"He bought into the theory that quality was the way out of the cycle of being a slave to the market," Watts says. The effort paid off when Watts showed up in his village and signed a three-year contract paying him $1.75 per pound in the third year, with a clause that could bring him $3 per pound for his very best beans.

"He was crying, his dad was crying," Watts recalls. "He said, 'Now I can walk around and say [to the neighbors], I am not crazy. You're crazy.' "
 

Arriving unannounced at Las Brumas, Watts was embraced by the farmers outside their new co-op headquarters, which they had built with money from direct sales to Intelligentsia and other premium and fair-trade buyers. They also had used money from Cecocafen's social-development fund to build a two-room schoolhouse, repair the pocked road and provide families with small-business loans and 160 high-school scholarships. The Arauzes, who earn an additional bonus because they now grow all their coffee organically, had settled their debts and were sending their daughter to college to study tourism.

"We found out how good our coffee was," said Arauz, 41, a thoughtful man who speaks with the confidence of an army commander, which he was. "Now we have a new horizon."

Speaking through an interpreter, Watts responded that Las Brumas is "the coffee project I am most proud of" and encouraged the farmers to keep improving the crop by picking only mature beans, washing them thoroughly and processing each batch separately. He then handed over two boxes of clothes and other items donated by Intelligentsia's Chicago employees.

Watts and the villagers discussed setting aside 2 cents per pound from Flor Azul sales in Chicago for the community's own development fund. Watts had a health clinic in mind; the farmers said they needed a truck.

Afterward, outside the shack, Arauz told Watts about co-op members' doubts that the extra work Watts wanted them to do would really result in higher prices. "It's difficult to change the tradition of coffee," Arauz said. "It's difficult to convince farmers used to just throwing it in a sack and taking it to market that they need to clean it, care for it and protect it from bad odors. Sometimes the farmers believe us. Sometimes they don't."

Arauz said the co-op wanted a written contract that locks in the prices and amounts Watts will buy each year. The farmers were disappointed that he had bought only a third of their crop in 2005. Watts replied with a big promise, saying they could work out a written contract on his next visit. Noting that Intelligentsia's business was growing rapidly, he said the price could be adjusted upwards, but never downwards.

"I will never pay less. I don't care where the market is," he vowed. "The only thing that could sabotage this relationship is if the improvement [in quality] stopped. The coffee has to perform on the table."

From the back, one of the farmers expressed the group's anxious desire for a guaranteed, long-term relationship with Intelligentsia by piping up with a single word in English:

"Forever," he said.

He was referring to the coffee deal, but his choice of words had its roots in the complicated history between Americans and Nicaraguans, one scarred by promises and disappointments. Asked where he learned the word, the farmer said he remembered it from a phrase heard during the time of the U.S.-supported dictator, Anastasio Somoza, whose brutal regime was overthrown in 1979 by leftist Sandinista guerrillas.

"Somoza forever," the saying went.

Not far to the north of Las Brumas is the Honduran border, where much of the war was fought in the 1980s between the Sandinista army and the U.S.-financed contra rebels who contributed to the Sandinistas' fall from power in 1990 elections. Some of the farmers were involved in the war, including Arauz, who was a Sandinista army lieutenant and says he took part in some 50 battles. Other farmers supported the contras.

More than 15 years later, they struggle together against common adversaries: the global coffee market and unscrupulous middlemen.

Traditionally, the farmers sold their coffee to three or four local brokers who resold it at prices unknown to the growers. Relations often were bitter, with farmers suspecting they were being short-changed, but forced to sell to the brokers as a requirement of pre-harvest loans from local banks.

Growers say they would find out the global coffee price had jumped on a certain day, but were told the broker was unavailable or "out of the country." By the time he appeared again, the price had dropped. Other times, brokers would exploit a farmer's desperate economic situation by offering them half the market price in advance of the harvest.

"As we say in our country, there are thieves with guns and thieves in ties," says Arauz, who remembers almost losing his farm and not having enough money to pay his pregnant wife's hospital bills after the 1999 price crash.

Since 2001, Las Brumas has instead sold through Cecocafen, which helps find alternative buyers, arrange financing and negotiate better prices for 1,900 growers. Four such marketing co-ops now represent a quarter of Nicaragua's 25,000 growers.

The Las Brumas farmers still aren't completely happy. They were disappointed with the overall price that Cecocafen sold their coffee for this year. Watts said he planned to take along an accountant on his next visit to make sure Intelligentsia's money is reaching them.

Many industry officials believe the premium-quality coffee market, by appealing to a wider range of consumers, can benefit more farmers than the even smaller fair-trade, organic or environment-friendly coffee markets. Those other approaches ask socially-minded consumers to pay a premium but do not directly promote better-tasting beans.

The downside to the quality market is that it lacks the verification and labeling those other systems have to assure cappuccino sippers that the extra money they're paying isn't going into the pockets of middlemen.
 

Paul Rice is the founder of Oakland-based Transfair USA, a company that certifies that buyers pay at least the fair-trade price of $1.26 per pound for coffee, of which the farmer usually gets around $1. Rice estimated that in 2005 about 10 percent of U.S.-consumed coffee carried Transfair's certification label, and lamented that it wasn't more.

"Intelligentsia may be very committed to a direct relationship with farmers, but most companies don't operate that way," Rice said. "Most companies don't really know where the money from most of their purchases goes."

Watts said 15 percent of Intelligentsia's coffee is fair-trade certified. He said the roastery could certify more, but that it would rather give more money to the farmers than pay the certification costs.

I RETURNED to Nicaragua last July, without Watts, to speak with Las Brumas' farmers.

Arauz, who by then had handed leadership of the co-op to another member, lives with his wife and five children in a modest, cement-block home in the city of Jinotega and drives up to his coffee fields several times a week.

Arauz, whose family has always grown coffee, owns a total of 35 acres, on which he pays a family to live as caretakers. During the three-month harvest season, he hires another 20 or 30 laborers who move their families onto the land to pick the beans. He said he made about $6,000 last year, "a good year."

Arauz explained how he had first met Watts and how a Cecocafen official advised the co-op not to rely on the coffee buyer, thinking he'd never purchase enough coffee to justify a relationship. But a co-op consultant advised them not to miss out on the higher prices Watts was offering.

"It's a beginning," said Maria Ennis Velasquez, Arauz's wife, as their children dashed in and out of their living room. "We want them to tell us directly how much they are going to buy. That's the concern of everybody."

While driving back down from the coffee fields one day, Arauz asked how Intelligentsia was selling his coffee in Chicago. We stopped at an Internet cafZ in Jinotega, and Arauz sat spellbound as Intelligentsia's Web site came up on a computer screen, followed by the page featuring Flor Azul. He didn't bat an eye at the $12.95 price. "That is understood. We are just part of the chain," he said.

The day before, however, he had appeared less comfortable while calculating aloud how many cups of coffee a retailer can get out of a pound bag and how much the retailer could earn if selling cappuccinos at $3 a cup.

"We're in agreement that everyone in the chain makes something, but it's got to be a just distribution," Arauz said.

FOR THE THIRD day in a row, during his visit last spring, Watts is at Cecocafen's processing complex, sitting at a round table ringed with glasses of freshly brewed coffee. It marks the 15th time in three years that he is smelling and sipping coffee samples from Las Brumas and other co-ops.

Out the rear window one can see acres of concrete, the drying platforms for beans. Behind them is the building where the best beans are sorted from leaves, sticks and inferior beans in a maze of elevator columns, chutes, filters and floor grates.

Across the table from Watts sits Consuelo Arauz, 18, the Las Brumas president's daughter, who is learning to taste-test coffee. She is one of 65 young Nicaraguans being trained with the help of USAID and private groups, so that someone besides buyers can gauge the quality of the farmers' product and can better haggle over prices.

Traditionally, Nicaragua has not had a well-developed coffee-consuming culture; their best beans have always been exported to bring in hard currency. Arauz says she likes the taste, "although what I don't have in my head are 'chocolate' and all those other terms they use."

Later, comparing taste scores on a laptop, Watts identifies one consistently excellent Las Brumas grower as Jose Luis Gonzalez, whose farm sits at an ideal 4,500 feet above sea level. He vows to find Gonzalez on his next visit to learn what he is doing right.

IN JULY, I found Gonzalez in a big sloping field of carrots, which he had planted to supplement his falling coffee earnings. He lives in a one-room, unlit shack in the middle of his coffee trees with his wife, Rosario, 23, and their son, Herson, 2.

Gonzalez, 38, who has spent his life tending his family's coffee, said he produced 1,000 pounds of coffee last year on his 2 acres-the coffee that Watts rated high-but that the carrots earned him more money.

Told by other co-op members that Watts liked his coffee, and that it could mean more money, Gonzalez was intrigued but full of questions.

"What happens if the [global market] price drops again?" he asked. "When is this guy coming back?"

THE FLOW OF JOE
The price of high-end coffee from Chicago-based Intelligensia is determined by numerous expenses- from the farmer's labor in Central America to the cost of Chicago baristas' health insurance.

CONTRIBUTING COSTS
Breaking down the cost of one pound of Intelligentsia Flor Azul coffee

1.     Farming/harvesting         $1.42
        TOTAL: $1.42
COSTS: Planting, fertilizing, tending and picking the beans from coffee plants

2.     Initial preparation              .26
        TOTAL: $1.68
Milling, drying, sorting, and transporting the beans

3.     Shipping                          .09
        TOTAL: $1.77
 Shipping fees

4.     Importing                         .15
        TOTAL: $1.92
Offloading, storage, sampling for quality, customs and import fees

5.     Trucking                          .12
        TOTAL: $2.04
Shipment fees from Oakland to Chicago

6.     Wholesale preparation     5.91
        TOTAL: $7.95
Employee salaries and benefits, roasting, marketing, packaging

7.     Retail sales                    5.00
        TOTAL: $12.95
Same as wholesale, plus rent for 2 Chicago retail sites

SOURCE: Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, Inc.; Chicago Tribune graphic.

Copyright © 2006, Chicago Tribune